Willis Brothers – Basic Beach and Surfing Safety Guide plus Etiquette !!!

 

Be it your first time to the beach or going on 50 years of Ocean Devotion this valuable Beach and Surfing Safety Guide offers tips and safety information even long time “Salts” can benefit from. Easy to read, understand and apply, take time to look it over, pass the info on and help save lives !!! Remember beach safety is no accident – – – Know before you go !!!

For the first time anywhere the world’s first and foremost complete ———— Basic Beach and Surfing Safety Guide plus Etiquette !!! 

 

Willis Brothers Beach Etiquette:

1. Sunscreen. Use hand lotion sunscreens as opposed to spray on sunscreens. If you do use aerosol and spray bottle sunscreen be aware it  can blow down wind through the air right into your neighbor’s eyes and lungs.

2. Keep your music low. While you may love to blast your music remember many people come to the beach to hear the waves, seagulls, peace and quiet.

3. Sand Holes. If you dig a deep hole in the sand, fill it before you leave.

4. Don’t leave trash. Pack it in pack it out.

5. No Glass. Don’t bring glass containers to the beach. Beach Safety Orientation Beach Observation – Observe

 

Willis Brothers Beach Safety:

1. Beach Observation – Observe

a. Look for possible hazards i.e. rip currents, rocks, jetties, piers, lobster traps etc.
b. Look at over all conditions such as tides, swell height, wind direction, where waves are breaking and where they are not.
c. Decide where you are going to swim or surf.

2. Long Shore Currents

Long shore currents can drag swimmers up or down the beach. Generally the larger the waves the stronger the current.

3. Stationary Beach Marker

To avoid getting swept up or down the beach by the long shore current have a  stationary reference point. (House, rock formation, tree, etc). For swimmers this can also help you keep track of your towel and belongings at the beach on a crowded day.

4. Rip Currents/Waves

Rip currents occur along side or in between waves. Where rip currents occur the water is deeper. Where waves occur water is shallower.

Rip currents do not always flow straight out and can be difficult to identify. Flash rip currents appear at unpredictable times. Bigger waves create stronger rip currents.

To identify a rip current look for the spaces or gaps in between the waves or along side waves.

a. To avoid rip currents simply wade or swim in front of the waves.
b. To escape rip currents stay relaxed, swim or tread water toward the waves. Waves are the oceans escalator of energy heading toward the shore.

The closer a swimmer gets to the waves the weaker the pull of the rip current will be and the easier it will be to swim in. Watch our Rip Current Safety Video Here.

5. Bees, Jelly Fish, Stingrays

a. Bees: Be vigilant for bees washed up along the shoreline some alive some not, however both can still sting.
b. Jellyfish: If stung by a jellyfish use vinegar to negate the sting. Do not rinse in fresh water or rub stinging area.
c. Stingray: There are 3 common ways of hopefully avoid stepping on and getting stung by a stingray.

1. Stingray shuffle. Shuffle your feet when walking out into the ocean to avoid steeping on a stingray.
2. Stingray tap. Stomp after every few shuffles loudly to alert the stingray you are coming and for the stingray to move away.
3. When ever possible look. In shallow or clear water it is possible to see stingrays resting on the ocean floor.

Stingrays have a razor sharp harpoon barb on the end of their tails. When stepped on they inflict a sharp jab (usually in the foot) as if having stepped on a nail. If stung by a stingray it is extremely painful. The most common remedy used by surfers and lifeguards is to immerse the afflicted wound in hot water for one hour.

6. Swimming in shallow water can be dangerous.

Never dive straight down head first into the ocean or while body surfing. If you do dive off or fall headfirst keep your arms in front of you or tuck and roll.

7. While in the ocean never have anything in between you and the waves.

Watch out for others and help save lives by sharing this information

 

Willis Brothers Surfing Etiquette:

1. A surfer has the right of way over a surfer paddling out.

2. The surfer closet to the curl or breaking part of the wave has priority possession.

3. Riding together can be ok, dropping in on or interrupting a surfer’s ride is not.

 

Willis Brothers Surfing Safety Tips:

1. Never have anything between you and the wave. Your surfboard should be underneath you or to your side and pointed into the waves.

2. Never dive or fall head first off the surfboard. If you do, put your arms out to protect your fall or tuck and roll.

3. Always know how to take off your leash without looking before ever going out into the ocean.

4. Remember generally waves are much bigger than they appear from shore.

5. A B C’s of Surfing – Always Be Cool !

Surfing like life there will be great rides and there will be wipeouts. These ups and downs are part of the entire experience and are best handled by practicing remaining cool and  calm under pressure….

Blessings and Respect, Milton (MB1) Willis, Michael (MC2) Willis

 

Paul Mitchell Super Girl Pro Surfing !

Paul Mitchell Super Girl Pro Surfing !

Hats of to the ladies once again! In this day and age it’s fantastic to see more and more girls surfing. Not only are more girls surfing then ever before but more girls are surfing better than ever before.

Which brings us to this week’s blog “the Paul Mitchell Super Girl Pro” surfing contest for girls only! Billed as the world’s largest women’s surfing event the Super Girl is aptly titled as these young ladies actually Surf Super even Super Duper! It’s great to see the Paul Mitchell as the title sponsor putting money into promoting women’s surfing. It’s not that every girl needs to get inspired to surf more it is about getting girls inspired to keep fit, stay healthy, and active!!!

2014 champ Sage Erickson will be there. Remember in the comic strips how Superman had super powers able to leap tall buildings, faster than a speeding bullet and able to fly? Well Sage Erickson can catch a wave and faster than a blink of an eye launch her surfboard into the air and literally fly into another section of the wave land and keep right on going!!! And this is not a comic strip character this is a real girl — err i mean Super Girl!!!

Joining Erickson will be others with super girl abilities making the competition for the best of the best of women surfers an epic challenge. Super Surfer girls such as Alana Blanchard, Carissa Moore, Courtney Conlogue and Malia Manuel will be there. Any one of these girls has the experience and talent to potentially take first place. So does Coco Ho daughter of legendary surfer Michael Ho and niece of former world champion surfer Derrick Ho – – – Go Go Go Girls!!!

The Super Girl Surfing event is scheduled to take place in Oceanside California at the pier on July 22nd thru the 24th.

Oceanside once again will be a great venue for this prestigious contest as generally this time of year there will be great waves and warm water. If you can’t make it to Oceanside check out the action at SUPERGIRLPRO.COM Be it boys or girls it is inspiring to see the best of the best and yes these girls are.

Blessings and Respect, Next week    well    your gonna have to check back to get “the Inside Scoop”. oh yeah!!!

 

 

 

 

Milton Willis World Champion of Big Wave Surfing

In sports and life there will always be politics, but in time, justice always prevails. The following true account of the largest waves ever surfed is proof. Moral of the following true story: do not wait for an invitation to live your dreams.

 

surfer-milton-willis-world-ChampionCondition black January 28th 1998 Hawaii:

A swell the size of which was never before seen was about to explode on the North Shore of Oahu. A swell so big in fact that the Quicksilver Eddie Aikau big wave surfing challenge would be cancelled due to extreme high surf too big for the professional big wave surfers, lifeguards, contests organizers and the state of Hawaii. A “condition black” was issued officially closing all North Shore beaches thereby making it illegal to enter the ocean this day. This is the first and only big wave surfing contest to be postponed because of high surf.

When the big swell of ‘98 hit, it was bigger and more powerful than anyone could have ever imagined. Surfers, old locals, fishermen, lifeguards – no one had ever seen the ocean waves this fierce, this big, or breaking this far out. As far out as one could see, powerful giant waves were breaking beyond the horizon. Amazingly, the best big wave surfers in the world began protesting against going surfing in the biggest waves to ever come ashore. This Eddie Aikau contest goes down in history as the first and only big wave surfing contest that the world’s best big wave surfers did not want to participate in due to big surf.

Eddie Aikau big wave surfing event Hawaii:

Almost the entire big wave surfing community was gathered together at Waimea Bay where the Eddie Aikau big wave surfing event was on hold. Contest coordinator Randy Rarrick began looking for alternates on the invitee list to fill the places of protesting surfers to no avail. During this time, several invited surfers including Michael Ho and Johnny Boy Gomes informed Milton Willis that if he ever wanted a chance to compete in the Quicksilver Eddie Aikau big wave surfing contest, now was his chance.

BIOMilton-outer-reefRacing down to the beach Willis approached Rarrick about getting into the big wave event. Rarrick personally knowing Willis’ ability quickly responded – “you’re in.” Rarrick turned to write Willis on the official list of contestant’s board for all to see. No sooner had the ink dried when the Eddie Aikau big wave surfing contest director George Downing declared the surf too dangerous and the contest cancelled.

Though one of Willis’ proudest moments was to be included amongst peers in the big wave challenge, when the contest got cancelled it made no difference to him. Willis was going surfing this day, Quicksilver big wave contest or not. A bigger more official superceding contest was about to take place. This was a moment Willis had always dreamed of – surfing the world’s largest waves and becoming the real world champion of big wave extreme surfing. Nothing was going to stop him, every fiber of his being told him — go!

Big wave extreme surfing Waimea Bay Hawaii:

BIOm&mwaimea2After hearing the Eddie Aikau big wave surfing contest was cancelled, Willis was the first to declare, “I’m going surfing.” On the way out of the contest area, Willis ran into Clyde Aikau, former Quicksilver big wave surfing contest winner and eternal true big wave surfing champion. Willis encouraged Aikau to come surfing with him but Aikau declined saying he did not want any part of the ocean this day. Clyde Aikau was not alone. Big wave surfers with big reputations such as Brock Little, Keone Downing, Garritt Macnamara and others were no where to be found. Willis did find his brother Michael Willis and two surfing partners Cheyne Horan and Sam Hawk. Together, along with Dan Moore and Ken Bradshaw, the art of big wave extreme surfing was about to blow open and set the standard for 21st century big wave extreme surfing.

Biggest Wednesday, January 28, 1998 — Hallmark day:

“Biggest Wednesday,” January 28, 1998, opened the door of, and set the standards for, extreme big wave surfing. What was once thought impossible and then maybe possible, became reality. Those who witnessed Biggest Wednesday will never look at big wave surfing the same way. Those who surfed Biggest Wednesday are recognized for surfing the largest waves ever surfed. Milton Willis, Michael Willis, Cheyne Horan, Sam Hawk, Dan Moore and Ken Bradshaw changed the very essence of big wave surfing forever. Together this intrepid group of expert big wave surfers put the extreme in extreme big wave surfing.

With 60 to 100-foot plus waves breaking on the whole North Shore of Oahu, all of the regular big wave surfing spots were closing out. Mysto spots never before seen let alone surfed, were breaking miles out. From shore, the only outer reef that looked possible to surf and survive appeared to be at outside Log Cabins. Getting out to the waves appeared nearly impossible. First there was a 30-foot shore break to get through which would be followed by non-stop, huge, deep-water tidal waves exploding everywhere.

Willis partnered up with his brother Michael, Sam Hawk and Cheyne Horan. Together they launched directly from Sunset Point right off the beach, weaving in and out of giant waves, back and forth, side to side, in and out, they were able to miraculously reach the outside waves. As planned ahead of time, the Willis brothers Horan and Hawk headed west to outer Log Cabins. Though Horan and Hawk made a beeline for outer Log Cabins, the Willis brothers instead took a detour going further outside of Sunset Beach.

Extreme tow surfing outside Log Cabins / Sunset Beach, Hawaii:

There is no sure way to estimate the size of the behemoth waves the Willis brothers encountered more than a mile outside of Sunset beach, but it’s safe to say these waves were double the size of outer Log Cabins. With Michael towing and Milton tow surfing, the brothers were able to ride three all-time empire state building waves. They were the only ones to surf outside Sunset Beach this day and they did it twice, once in the morning and again in the late afternoon. Milton Willis in this moment rode the largest waves in surfing history, and by doing so, became the real and true world champion of extreme big wave surfing.

After surfing outside Sunset Beach and the largest waves ever surfed, the Willis brothers headed west to meet up with Hawk and Horan at outer Log Cabins. Moore and Bradshaw, having motored up from Haleiwa, arrived at the same time. Horan caught the first wave at outside Log Cabins, but it was Milton who actually caught the first and biggest waves of Biggest Wednesday outside Sunset Beach.

After surfing outside Sunset Beach, outside Log Cabins seemed small in comparison. Of the few surfers to surf outside Log Cabins on Biggest Wednesday, Milton Willis was the only one to get barreled and make the wave. Troy Alotis also was barreled in the afternoon session at outside Log Cabins but did not make his wave.

World Championship of extreme big wave tow surfing Hawaii:

Although the legendary session – Biggest Wednesday, January 28, at outside Log Cabins is accepted by many surfing scholars as the largest waves ever surfed, the fact remains the waves surfed outside Sunset Beach this same day were bigger. Milton Bradley Willis is in fact the real and true extreme big wave surfing champion of the world. The next extreme big wave world champion has to ride a wave bigger than Milton Willis’s epic Biggest Wednesday at outside Sunset Beach. Good luck.

No one can call them self a world champion of big wave surfing nor can others bestow the title. To be the world champion of extreme big wave surfing it’s straightforward, no politics; ride the biggest waves with the most skill and you win. Others can try to pervert, hide and change the truth, but the truth is everyone who reaches for and grabs hold of their dream is a world champion.

The real and true extreme big wave tow surfing champion is Milton Willis who had a dream to surf the world’s largest waves. He worked hard, remained loyal to his passion and then became that champion. Like Milton Willis, you enter the contest of life when you dare to dream unrealized possibilities and turn them into realities.

Standing the test of time, it’s been close to twenty years since Milton B. Willis along with Michael C. Willis opened up the doors of GIANT WAVE SURFING ! There has not to this date  been another CODE BLACK (WAVE conditions deemed to LARGE to humanly surf). Milton B. Willis remains the WORLD CHAMPION of the LARGEST WAVES ever SURFED.

Titus Nihi Kinimaka Dramatic Rescue by Michael Willis

Hawaii in the winter months is a dream comes true for thousands of people.

michael-willis-champion-surferMany save their entire life for just 10 days experiencing the tropical romance and adventure they had always hoped existed. Throw in the big wave action, the seasonal onslaught of visitors and colorful locals, mix it up and you have one of the most intense, fun carnival/gladiators like environments on the planet.

On the island of Oahu, big wave surfing is more than fun. Surfers live, breath and dedicate every thought to pursuing the dream of rising up to the challenge of surfing big waves. Consequences for big wave surfers can be brutal and sometimes fatal. The just released video biography of Titus Kinimaka highlights just how dangerous a big wave surfing wipeout can be. What follows is a true account of Kinimaka’s amazing rescue and the suffering and pain he overcame to survive. Many consider this one of the most dramatic and dangerous rescues in all of surfing history.

Christmas morning the Eddie Aikau big wave contest was set to go off

By 7am in the morning the line up was filled with 40 or more of the best big wave surfers rising to the challenge and preparing for their time when they would have a shot at winning the prestigious event. Though the line up was filled with international talent only one surfer stood out. Ridding powerful wave after wave Titus Kinimaka dominated the line up and put on a one-man show. Kinimaka would catch the biggest wave, ride it to shore and then paddle back out just in time to get the next big wave.

Kinimaka surfed aggressively on his 10’8” Willis Bros. trusted big wave gun and was having one of his best performances ever at Waimea Bay. Titus looked to be the man to beat he was catching all the best waves. Something possessed Kinimaka and drove him further to push the envelope of fate and destiny this day by taking off further back and later each time. As big as the waves were, this surfer’s confidence grew bigger and his performance escalated still higher.

titusJPGTitus’s surfing was on fire, but the waves were more on fire. Because of the thick west swell and the dropping tide some of the sets had begun to throw out and begin to tube. The conditions intensified, some of the waves were humanely impossible to catch much less drop down the face and make it safely to the bottom. On one such wave as if a superman Titus turned his board around and stroked hard and determined into a death defying wave launching himself and his surfboard into the air. No one thought he would have time to get to his feet let alone make the drop. After freefalling 15 feet his single fin engaged and he miraculously made it to the bottom of the wave.

Before Titus could turn a canopy of water like a ton of bricks came crashing down on him driving him into his surfboard like a flattened pancake tearing off his leg shattering his femur. (Later Titus would relate how he felt something hitting him in the back of the head and flapping around he was surprised to learn it was his foot.) In the blink of an eye Titus went down in a thunderous explosion violently swallowed up by the ocean. Moments later he broke the surface of the water with a scream that came from the very depths of agonizing, excruciating pain.

Big wave surfers have a code of respect and responsibility to make sure a fellow surfer comes up after a wipe out. This case would be no different for Michael Willis. Paddling back out after surfing one of the rare waves not captured, it was Willis who had the front row up close and friendly view of what had just happened. Willis didn’t wait for Kinimaka to come up; his vast big wave experience told him this was no ordinary wipeout. By the time Kinimaka came up screaming Michael Willis was right there for him. No less a heroic feat than someone who rushes into a burning building saving the occupants or pulling a helpless victim from a crumpled automobile ready to explode Michael Willis with no regard for his personal safety snatched Titus Kinimaka from the jaws of death. With 20’ plus waves continuing to pound Michael paddled over to Kinimaka and pulled him to the temporary safety of the channel.

Almost immediately Kinimakas’ teeth started to chatter and his eyes began to roll upwards— he was going into shock. Michael’s experience and first aid training had taught him to keep the victim as warm and comfortable as possible. This would not be easy considering the severity of the situation and the extreme surf conditions. In no way did Titus want to risk braving the shore break to get in he was in too much pain and knew it wasn’t a chance he wanted to take. Calling over fellow surfers Robbie Page, Milton Willis, Louie Ferria and others Michael Willis formed a humane raft to float Kinimaka. Using his body as a human blanket Michael cradled Titus in his arms constantly reassuring him everything would be okay. Chest to chest heart to heart Michael Willis combined the heat from his own body and human touch to successfully control a situation that had gotten terribly out of control saving Kinimaka’s life. Kinimaka’s shivering began to subside and except for the pounding 20 waves on the outside the situation was stabilized. It would take a helicopter 45 minutes to arrive on the scene at the time this seemed like forever.

Six weeks later there was a knock at Michael Willis’s door, it was Titus Kinimaka. Titus came to express gratitude for saving his life. Though he could not remember much about the rescue he did remember the comfort and warmth that helped him get through one of the worst wipeouts ever recorded. The rescue of Titus Kinimaka goes down as one of the most dramatic successful rescues in surfing history. Though Michael Willis never received formal recognition for a successful rescue in hazardous surfing conditions from the city and county of Honolulu being recognized by Titus for saving his life was enough.

Today after close to two decades later Titus Kinimaka is completely healed and living on Kauai raising a beautiful family. Michael C. Willis along with Milton B. Willis continues to practice and promote Ocean Safety world wide.

Surfing experts the Willis bros are recognized for surfing the world’s largest waves and teaching thousands to successfully surf.

Swimming: The Lost Art

Swimming: The Lost Art Possibly the world’s greatest gym is the ocean and one of the best workouts is surfing.

Through out time those who enter the sea to surf, swim, paddle, dive or other ocean activity come back invigorated, strengthened, renewed and filled with zeal. To raise performance and improve stamina many surfers condition themselves for surfing by swimming. While not everyone desires to surf everyone can benefit from being in condition to surf. Swimming is one of the best exercises known to man and an indispensable skill for every surfer.

In the past surfers knew if they wiped out and lost their board they were in for a swim back to the beach. Today many surfers rely on protective leaches that prevent the board from washing away after a wipe out. Relying on a leash instead of good swimming skills is a mistake and could hazardous. What happens if the leash snaps or breaks? La Jolla cove is known for it’s big waves and potentially dangerous swim in if you wipe out and loose a surfboard. Almost everyone who dares to surf the cove uses a leash and this day was no different. On the outside perhaps the biggest wave of the day was looming in. All the surfers in the line up were caught by surprise when a huge powerful wave broke over them. Everyone made it through intact except one surfer whose leash snapped. Coming up for air this surfer began to panic when he did not have his surfboard with him anymore. Fortunately two San Diego lifeguards were patrolling the line up on a jet ski but unfortunately they did not notice the surfer in trouble. Not use to swimming, at first this surfer froze unsure of what to do. Looking around the surfer spotted the lifeguards in the channel but he did not spot his surfboard, which was floating only a short distance away. Rather than swim quickly to retrieve his surfboard the surfer began waving his arms and yelling for help. This went on for ten minutes or more and still the guards never saw the distressed surfer. In the mean time his surfboard was slowly drifting to shore as he continued to summon the guards in vain. After drifting half way in and safely away from the crashing breakers the guards spotted the surfer and zoomed in for the rescue. Embarrassed to be rescued or fearful of swimming the surfer asked the guards to retrieve his surfboard. The guards refused saying that was not their job and so in the end the surfer had to swim in all the way on his own power. To rub salt into the wound his surfboard ended up broken on the shoreline rocks. Had he swam for his board in the beginning he could have saved it from breaking and himself from long swim?

It is assumed all surfers have a minimum ocean education and swimming skill levels.

With most surfers utilizing a leash these day’s this is no longer true. Many surfers have never ever had to swim for their surfboard. Surfing schools that offer surfing programs offer a complete education when they include ocean swimming education and skill building. Perhaps participants in so California’s professional surfing PE programs in the public schools should be required to take an ocean swimming exam and test before ever being allowed to participate in surfing. One does not have to be the strongest swimmer to be a surfer or an ocean swimmer but one does need to understand the ocean and it’s flow.

Knowing how to avoid or use rips, currents, tides and how to swim with the waves could save a surfers life. Whether swimming for health, piece of mind or a survival skill for surfing ocean swimming is proven to improve health and well being for humans both mentally and physically. For those not so keen on surfing or swimming just dipping ones toes in close to shore can have a completely rejuvenating effect. Surfing, swimming or just dipping all who come into the ocean leave renewed, feeling alive and clean.

See you in the surf. Surfing experts the Willis Bro’s. are recognized for surfing the world’s largest waves and teaching thousands to successfully surf. Come, Live the Life!

Surfing Psychology and The Five C’s

Legendary professional golfer Tiger Woods is no stranger to optimum performance and winning. When it comes to the competition Woods is heads and shoulders above the rest. Woods stellar performances on the golf coarse have earned him a world -wide reputation as one of the best to ever play the game. As far as professional golfing goes, all the contenders can hit the ball well, what separates Woods from the rest of the pack is his ability to deal with and come through in high-pressure situations.

So how does Woods do it? How can he maintain composure and not crack when tens of thousands of people are watching his every move and a big money tournament is on the line? In fact how is it any well-trained professional athlete comes through in clutch situations when the stakes are high. How does Kobe Bryant manage to hit the basket with a winning shot just before the buzzer goes off in front of thousands? How does Trevor Hoffman manage to save tough baseball games over and over again? How do big wave surfers such as Jamie “Pipeline” O’Brian, Cheyne boy Willis and Makua Rothman take off on and make waves that defy all logic and imagination? No where on earth is there any more pressure for an athlete than taking off on a big wave in shallow water over a sharp reef. In other sports if an athlete chokes he stands a chance to lose the game. If a surfer chokes while surfing big waves he stands a chance of losing his life.

All said and done it all comes down to having the mental edge. Premiere surfers and athletes gain the mental edge by practicing the five C’s, curiosity, consciousness, confidence, calmness and consistency. The defining factor that separates the great athletes from the average ones is ability to handle and deal with high-pressure situations. Regardless of the size waves surfers choose to ride or sport of choice for athletes every athlete should increase his chances for success by practicing the five C’s.

Curious

Being curious is what keeps surfers always looking for a new or better way to evolve their performances, be it by improving their skill level or improving their equipment. Advancement in surfing or life in general does not happen by accident but rather through heartfelt desire, applied accurate knowledge and hard work. Most important for a surfer is the curiosity that keeps him always looking for new and better ways to ride waves. No matter how well someone does anything there is always room for improvement.

Conscious

Being conscious is being alert, aware of everything going on externally and internally. Big wave surfing does not require surfers to be supernatural it does require surfers to pay attention. Surfers should know what’s going in order to have a feeling for what is going to go on. One lapse of attention can mean the difference between catching the best wave and getting caught by the worse wave. Surfers should always be looking ahead to see what’s coming well before it comes. Remain conscious and aware by keeping an open mind.

Confident

Being confident comes from being smart. If a surfer has trained and put in the practice he can be confident. When a surfer takes off on an exceptionally dangerous wave he cannot predict the future but he can make it by being confident. Once a surfer is on a wave there can be no second-guessing, no hesitation, no turning back, only supreme confidence he will make it. Have faith and always believe in yourself.

Calm

Being calm is having faith in your belief. When a surfer catches an eye -opening wave, no matter how exciting or scary he must maintain composure. Just as the eye of the hurricane is calm within the storm or the center of the tube is calm within the power of the wave, surfers must stay calm inside regardless of outside circumstances. A surfer cannot be fully conscious or confident if he were to panic. Even if the wave looks impossible to make he must remain cool, calm and collected. Relax the mind and the body will follow, relax the body and the mind will follow.

Consistent

Being consistent is the hallmark of champions. Surfers cannot change surfboards in the middle of surfing a wave and expect to make the wave. Successful big wave surfers work with what they have and make the most of it by polishing their strong points and eliminating or improving their weak ones. Through constant effort to become a great big wave surfer surfer’s become great big wave surfers. Like an empty as long as you keep filling it up with water even just one drop at a time, sooner or later it will be filled. Try once you may succeed keep trying and you will succeed.

Everyone not just professional athletes can benefit by practicing the five C’s- curiosity consciousness, confidence, calmness and consistency. Do not wait for circumstances in life to be tough or filled with pressure to practice the five C’s. Practice the five C’s in average everyday life and soon, just like the greatest athletes, you will experience above average life everyday! Aloha.